AA Mini Maglite L.E.D. upgrade

I like Mini Maglites a lot.  I own several.  I keep one in each vehicle, one in my tool box, one in my range bag, and one in my bedside table.  They’re great little flashlights but far from perfect.  There are several features of the Mini Maglite that have become outdated. For one the xenon bulbs are bright but they do burn out, the battery life is not the greatest, and I don’t really care for the twist to turn on feature.

Mini Maglite and Nite Ize L.E.D. uprgrade kit

Older Mini Maglite and new Nite Ize upgrade kit.

While in Home Depot the other day I was looking at the newer L.E.D. Mini Maglites and was thinking about buying a few to replace the older ones I have accumulated.  $25.98 for the newer flashlight seemed a bit high of a price to replace working flashlights.  If it ain’t broke don’t fix it.  However, right next to the display of Mini Maglites was a product by Night Ize Innovation to upgrade the old Mini Maglite to L.E.D. and add an on/off switch to replace the end cap.  For the price of $4.97, I thought I’d give it a try.

 

Upon opening the package I found very cryptic instructions and very few replacement parts.  The swap was quick and easy.  The old end cap unscrewed and the new switch screwed on in its place.  The new bulb has two wire leads that had to be carefully inserted into the two holes for the bulb.  There is a positive and negative lead and they must be in the correct holes.  There’s a 50/50 chance you’ll get it right the first time. If the bulb lights up you have the leads in the correct holes.  If not, just rotate the bulb 180 degrees and re-insert the leads.

Mini Maglite reflectors

The new reflector with the larger hole to accommodate the larger L.E.D. bulb

The Nite Ize upgrade does appear to truly be an upgrade.  The flashlight does seem brighter and they claim battery life will be increased to 25 hours with the L.E.D. bulb up from the 8 hours with the xenon bulb.  It may be a persona preference but I do find the end cap switch to be much easier to work than twisting the head of the light to turn it on or off.  You can still focus the light beam by rotating the head; that feature has not been lost.

 

Mini Maglite

The grip used to turn on and off the old Mini Maglite.

Mini Maglite

The grip used to turn the upgraded Mini Maglite on and of.

Overall, I’m very satisfied with the upgrade.  I see no downside to it.  For approximately $5.00 I was able to get a flashlight has longer battery life, has a more ergonomic on/off switch and still fits in my handy flashlight holster.

Upgraded Mini Maglite

Mini Maglite after the Nite Ize L.E.D. upgrade.

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Putting a sling on a Ruger 10/22

If you own a Ruger 10/22 you know what a great little rifle it is.   They’re small, light, inexpensive and tons of fun to shoot.  That’s why I own several.

One thing about the 10/22 that can be improved upon is the lack of a sling attachment.  Its much easier to sling a rifle over your shoulder than it is to carry it all day.  Especially if you need he use of your hands.  So, I decided to put a sling on one of my 10/22s to see how I liked it.

I decided to put two sling studs on the stock.  I didn’t want to use the barrel band as a sling attachment point.  If the polymer barrel band were to break, I’d end carrying the rifle.  With studs placed in the stock, should one pull out I could easily relocate the stud to a new hole with very few tools.

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First, I taped white paper to the stock so I could draw where to drill and drill without marring the stock.

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I decided that 3″ would be a good distance from the ends of the stock to drill without the fear of splitting the wood.

Use a straight edge to find the center of the stock

Use a straight edge to find the center of the stock

Take the time to be sure the stud will be centered in the stock.

Take the time to be sure the stud will be centered in the stock.

Nothing looks worse than an off-center or crooked sling stud.  Take a little extra time to be sure you will be drilling into the center of the stock.  I used a straight edge to locate the center of the for the front stud.  Just line things up with the take-down screw and you should be fine. For the butt end of the stock get that stud squared and centered any way you can.

Be sure you are drilling perpendicular to the stock

Be sure you are drilling perpendicular to the stock

The set-up takes longer than the drilling.

The set-up takes longer than the drilling.

Check your work.

Check your work.

You will have the rifle for years.  Take a few minutes to be sure it looks good.  No one wants to show off their rifle to friends who will notice a crooked or off-center sling stud.  Before you drill make sure the stock is secure in your padded drill vise.  Double check that everything is level and square.  Don’t rush.

Use the correct size drill bit.

Use the correct size drill bit.

Before you drill, be sure you choose the right size drill bit.  Its not too difficult to drill a bigger hole later because you chose a drill bit too small.  Its a whole different story if you drill a hole too big.

Hand tighten the stud.

Hand tighten the stud.

You can use a drill bit or even a nail to assist turning the stud into the stock.  Stop when the drill bit is at a right angle to the line of the stock.

Ruger 10/22 ready for a sling.

Ruger 10/22 ready for a sling.

Now you have a Ruger 10/22 all set to wear a sling.  With the use of quick detach sling swivels, you can take your favorite sling from your deer rifle and put it on your favorite squirrel or rabbit rifle.

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Iver Johnson .410 shotgun

This is one of those guns that was neglected for years and finally brought back from near ruin.  Had the gun sat out in the garage much longer there may have been nothing left of it.

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There wasn’t one good thing about the gun

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The receiver was rusted so bad the lettering was completely hidden.

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Paint dotted most of the gun

This poor little .410 was kept in a garage for the past 17 years.  It stood in the corner rusting away out of sight and out of mind.  As you can see the stock was taped because of a deep crack and paint spots were left when the garage was painted.  All in all a pretty sad little shotgun.  There were marks on the barrel from a vise or pliers that held the barrel while it was shortened with a hack saw.

Numrich Gun Parts was the source of a replacement spring.  Brownell’s was where I purchased a new front bead sight and cold blue.  The rough end of the barrelwas squared up and tapped for the front sight.  The barrel was sanded, polished and reblued.  The crack in the stock was cleaned out and then glued.  The whole stock was stripped, steamed, sanded and treated with several rubbings of boiled linseed oil.  Every part was disassembled and cleaned.  Then all parts were either greased or oiled.

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The barrel was sanded, polished and cold blued.

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The receiver was cleaned with oil and 0000 steel wool.

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The receiver was left looking vintage.

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The crack is barely visible after repair.

Today the Iver Johnson .410 is one of the family and lives indoors.  It looks nice and is now treated nice.  Only a few hours per night for a week with simple hand tools brought this neat little shotgun back to life.

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M1 Carbine for SHTF

M1 Carbine shooting .30 Carbine

M1 Carbine

M1 Carbine with bayonet and magazines

The M1 Carbine has been around since 1942.  It was intended for Army personnel who didn’t need the full sized M1 Garand but wanted something with more power than the 1911-A1.  The M1 Carbine was issued to American soldiers and saw action in WWll, Korea, Vietnam and too many other hot spots to mention.  With such a long service life, you can be assured the carbine is plenty durable.  If it meets the military’s rugged standards, it will meet yours too.

Some people may think the the M1 Carbine is just a smaller version of the Garand.  Not so.  They both shoot a .30 caliber bullet, but they are dimensionally very different.  The carbine round is 7.62mm x 33mm and fires a 110 grain bullet.  The Garand shoots a .30-06 round that is 7.62mm x 63mm.  They fire very different rounds and the M1 Carbine and the M1 Garand share no common parts.

What makes the M1 Carbine such a great little gun is that it is light and shoots a compact load.  The carbine itself is about 35.5″ and weighs just over 5 pounds.  The .30 carbine round propels a 110 grain bullet at 1990 fps.  This produces about 967 ft-lbs of power.  This is significantly more power than a .357 magnum revolver.

The M1 Carbine originally came with 15 round magazines.  These magazines could be carried in pouches on a pistol belt or mounted to the gun itself.  Later, 30 round magazines became available.  A fully loaded 30 round magazine still only weighs about one pound.  High firepower with just a little weight.  Interestingly, the 30 round magazine is where the expression ‘banana clip’ comes from.  The magazines are about the size of bananas and GIs were used to loading the Garand rifle by using en bloc clips.

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10 magazines (150 rounds) easily carried on a pistol belt

Most retired military M1 Carbines have been arsenal overhauled or upgraded from their original configuration to now possess bayonet lugs and adjustable sights.  The carbine pictured above contains these later features.  If things go really bad, its nice to have a bayonet on the end of your rifle to keep the bad guys from getting too close.

Today’s modern .30 carbine ammo is much better than GI ball ammo.  Remington, Winchester and Federal all make a nice soft point bullet with an exposed lead nose loaded in .30 carbine.  These make a nice load for hunting small game.

Its light weight, moderately powerful round and combat proven durability make the M1 Carbine a handy little rifle to have when things go bad.  It can also be used as an effective hunting rifle if it is all you have.

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Long barrel on a Smith & Wesson=Long range accuracy

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Smith & Wesson Model 686 with 8 3/8″ barrel

That’s not a photo-shopped image.  The barrel really is that long.  Smith & Wesson used to make the 686 model with 8 3/8″ barrels (other models could be had with 8 3/8″ barrels too).

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686 Smith & Wesson with 6-shot cylinder

This particular revolver is an older Model 686-1.  It is a 6-shot .357 magnum.  Later models could be found with 7-shot cylinders.

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Firing pin mounted to the hammer

Being an older model, the firing pin is in the hammer.  No frame mounted firing pins or transfer bars here.  This is the same hammer design that Colt Peacemakers employed way back in 1873.

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Wide target trigger

This particular revolver has a standard hammer and a wide ‘target’ trigger.  You can also see the rubber Pachmayr  grip has replaced the original wood grip panels.

Most people seem to think the long barrel is what makes this revolver such an accurate long-range shooter.  That is only partly true.  The longer barrel does provide more time for the bullet to be accelerated by the burning gunpowder.  Longer pistol barrels will yield greater bullet velocities over shorter barreled guns.  However, an eight inch barrel will not stabilize the bullet any more than a six-inch barrel.

What really makes this gun so accurate is the distance from the front sight to the rear sight.  This distance is referred to as ‘sight radius’.  Guns with longer sight radii are inherently more accurate.  As you set your sights on a target, you center the front sight in the rear sight notch.  With a short sight radius, it is easier to be off-target as only a slight misalignment of the sights greatly affects the barrel angle.  With a longer sight radius, the same sight picture will mean much less angle movement of the barrel.  The 686 with an 8 3/8″ barrel has a near rifle-like 10 1/4″ sight radius.

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.357 Magnum with a loooong barrel.

Long barrel means greater bullet velocity, improved bullet stability, but most of all a long sight radius.  If you are really good, you can shoot well with any length barrel.  The long barrel just makes accuracy easier.

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Colt Frontier Scout .22cal.

No history lessons here.  If you want to learn more about the Frontier Scout there are plenty of good places to go on the web.  I’m just going to be talking about this one single-action Colt.

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Colt Frontier Scout

Often I’ll refer to those ‘ugly black guns’.  I’m usually talking about Glocks and ARs.  This is one of those rare times when black plastic actually looks good on a hand gun.

I bought this little Colt because I was able to see the potential others had missed.  It sat on the shelf at the gun store being looked over by nearly every one.  It was well used and looking like it had been neglected for quite some time.  The action felt gritty when cocked and the cylinder barely turned.  The previous owner must not have cleaned it in years.  Frankly, I haven’t seen too many guns dirtier.  The guy who was selling it told me, “most of that will clean up.”  He was right.

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The flutes are nearly full of carbon

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Residue left from years of firing

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Recoil shield covered with fouling

The poor little Colt certainly needed a good cleaning.  Every little crease and corner was a hiding place for some form of dirt.  By the serial number, I was able to find the revolver was built some time during 1964.  It looked like it may have not been cleaned since then.

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Disassembled for a thorough cleaning

I disassembled the Scout.  Wanting to leave the screw heads sharp and crisp, I selected different screw drivers to fit each of the screws.  The key to a good take-down is leaving no trace that the gun was ever disassembled.  The neglected little Colt was so dirty, .22 dummy rounds would not chamber and the cylinder pin had to be pried out with pliers.  I padded the jaws to leave no trace on the bluing.  Once apart, the gun cleaned up with liberal amounts of Hoppe’s solvent, mineral spirits and elbow grease.

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Detail of the ejector rod

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Base of the grip frame

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Rampant colt on the frame

With Colts, its all about the little things.  The finish and details are what set Colts apart from the Colt clones.  Minor touches like the scroll work on the grip frame and the Rampant Colt on the frame really add class to a little .22.  Whoever came up with the idea of putting the ‘Serpent C’ logo on the ejector rod hopefully got a big bonus.

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Black plastic never looked so good.

Once cleaned, oiled and greased the Colt was put back together.  The screws were all snugged.  As I cocked the hammer and listened to the revolver spell out C-O-L-T, I was amazed how smooth the action was.  On half-cock the cylinder spins freely.  Makes me feel kind of proud how this little single-action can now be displayed to friends and taken out of its case at the range without apologizing for its looks.  Its no longer one of those ugly black guns.

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I found a keeper in the Feg P9R

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Feg P9R 9mm

Feg P9R

What if Browning and Smith & Wesson had a baby?  It might look something like the Feg P9R.  FEGARMY Arms in Hungary has combined the Browning designed cam locked barrel with the Smith & Wesson double action trigger.

The Feg P9R is a short recoil operated, locked breech pistol.  The double action pistol has an external hammer and a slide mounted safety that acts as a decocker when the safety is engaged.  The double stack 9mm holds a 14 round magazine.

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Feg P9R with slide open

Like most pistols, the P9R is set up for right handed shooters.  The slide release, safety and magazine release button are all on the left side.

This particular Feg possesses a nice blue finish with wood grips.  Synthetic grip panels can also be found.  The sights are low with the front sight being permanently mounted and the rear sight dovetailed into the slide.

The author has fired approximately 500 rounds through this pistol with no jams or misfires.  The action feeds and cycles both hollow point and full metal jacketed ammo with ease.  The accuracy of the pistol has been good to very good with shot grouping consistent with similar firearms.

Though I’m personally not a huge fan of the 9mm round, I’ve decided to keep the Feg.  Its fun to shoot and has proven itself to be reliable and accurate.  The 14 round capacity is also comforting should the need for high volume of fire ever be needed.

Appearance wise, I prefer wood and blued steel over plastic on any gun.  With its wood grip panels, the Feg retains the look of a classic Browning High Power.

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